Fabric Focus: The Lightness of Mulmul

Dear friends,

There are certain fabrics that reveal their qualities slowly, through living with them.

Indian muslin, known locally as mulmul, is one of them.

At first glance, it is almost imperceptible. The cloth is so fine it feels closer to air than to fabric, its surface soft, dry, and featherlight against the skin. And yet, when you look closely, you begin to understand the extraordinary level of human skill behind it. Each length is handwoven, thread by thread, on traditional looms whose quiet rhythm has remained largely unchanged for generations.

Historically, the finest muslins were woven in and around Dhaka, in the wider region of Bengal. So delicate and prized were these cloths that they were once reserved for royalty and nobility. Contemporary accounts describe fabric so sheer it could pass through a ring, yet strong enough to endure decades of wear. It was valued not only for its beauty, but for its intelligence, its ability to cool the body in extreme heat while still offering gentle coverage from the sun.

Spending time with this fabric now, its enduring relevance feels obvious.

It travels exceptionally well. Folded, it occupies almost no space, which makes it a natural companion for travel. Worn, it moves with the body and air, never clinging, never heavy. In heat and humidity, it offers both protection and relief.

What makes this fabric even more meaningful is the context in which it is still made today. Our muslin is woven through a small independent initiative, Kala Swaraj Foundation, which works to support handloom weavers and preserve traditional textile knowledge. Their work focuses on sustaining livelihoods, protecting heritage techniques, and ensuring these skills can continue for future generations. It is slow, careful work, and it shows in the cloth.

This season, we have introduced several pieces in this remarkable fabric.

The Lottie Top is a barely there sun layer, something to reach for in the height of summer, or to wear quietly beneath knitwear and tailoring when the seasons shift.

Our Painter Shirts, carried forward, take on a new lightness in muslin. They can be worn open over swimwear, loose over dresses, or layered under heavier pieces as the weather cools.

The Gracie Frill Top, one of our bestselling silhouettes, also returns this season in muslin. Originally introduced in crisp white cotton poplin as an everyday staple, it takes on an entirely different character in this cloth. Rendered in an airy, richly coloured muslin, it feels softer, more fluid, and playful, while remaining just as versatile.

And newly, the Opie Skirt, an easy, sheer summer skirt designed for warm days and travel. It can be worn simply over swimwear, or layered and dressed for the city.

More pieces in this cloth will follow later in the season.

In a world of increasing speed, there is something quietly profound in a fabric that asks for time. Time to make, time to wear, time to appreciate.

This is, without question, one of my favourite materials we have worked with, and I am so excited to share it with you.

With love,
R

Ren